Undercover Diner: Review of Tapeo & Wine, Deansgate, Manchester

Meals are paid for in full and the management is not warned TheBusinessDesk is visiting the restaurant 

IT’S a while since I last indulged in a tapas experience, but I distinctly remember the distant sound of the pinging microwave oven emanating from the kitchen area.

But such down-market mullarky does not appear to be part of the modus operandi at the newly-opened Tapeo & Wine outlet in central Manchester.

This restaurant purports to be an authentic Spanish tapas bar with backing from Manchester United and Spain footballer Juan Mata and his father Juan Snr. And I guess it most likely is.

I confess its menu is not as fulsome as I expected, but the emphasis at this establishment is clearly on quality.

This includes the tasteful dining and wine-bar area, where there was a nice early-evening buzz on Thursday when I and my companion visited.

The launch of this establishment has been well thought out with the wine and food menu compactly printed on two sides of a card menu.

We ordered a bottle of red wine – El Primero – for £21. My partner and I shared the Pan con Tomate, a sort of up-market garlic bread with rubbed tomato, garlic and EVOO (£2.50).

This was delicious and set us up perfectly for what was to follow. We ordered Bravas – fried potatoes with spicy “Brava” sauce and allioli – (£5) which we were assured by the very pleasant and helpful waitress would be enough to share. And it was.

My companion also ordered Croquetas de Jamon de Bellota – ham croquettes – (£7.60) and I had the Albondigas which are beef meatballs in homemade traditional Spanish sauce (£6.20)

Both options were delicious and deceptively filling. Such was the case we opted not have a dessert.

The owners’ pre-launch publicity emphasised the intention was to create a relaxed atmosphere where the casual diner could have a light bite to eat, the wine bar drinker, or someone who wants a full-on meal. This is certainly the case, helped by the friendly demeanor of the staff.

Other options on the menu included a range of other tapas dishes, particularly fish and seafood, ranging in price from £6.20 (Cogollos con Ventresca – baby gem lettuce salad with Bonito tuna belly) to £12.10 (Cigas a la Plancha – grilled langoustines).

Vegetables, including the Bravas, ranged from £4.20 per dish to £5.

Tapeo & Wine’s high-end offer included Meloso de Bogavante – lobster meloso rice for £25.90 and Paletilla de Cordero Lechal – slow roasted Segovian style Spanish milk fed lamb shoulder – for £23.50 and Lomo de Buey a la Parrilla – a 10oz chargrilled sirloin steak – for £21.50.

This was a highly pleasurable dining experience and I’d give this establishment a rating out of 10 of 8.