A sneak peek at Japanese pop up Issho @ Angelica

Angelica has been transformed with a taste of new D&D restaurant Issho, and we visited this week to get a sneak peek of the latest offering set for Victoria Gate.

The 7,807 sq ft restaurant at the £165m Victoria Gate development (dubbed the “world’s best” shopping centre at MIPIM 2017) is set to open on 21 June, but before that, D&D decided to try out their new brand. Issho and its pop up serves Asian dishes created by executive chef Ben Orpwood, who previously held the same position at Zuma and Sexy Fish in London.

Part of Leeds staple Angelica was apportioned to the pop up, with a “wish tree” dominating the floor, festooned with freebies.

Our lovely waiter, possibly co-opted in from Angelica, was still unbelievably knowledgeable about the cuisine, bringing over sparkling sake (don’t knock it until you’ve tried it – resembles prosecco with an apple tang) and recommending the steak tartar.

We weren’t disappointed.

A “raw” course of smoked beef tartar with Japanese chilli paste yuzu kosho and sweet potato crisps, and smoked and seared Dorset char with Wasabi leaf dressing was an eye opener, the char a refreshing and unusual highlight.

Slightly more unusual items on the menu included sweet soy glazed duck hearts, eggplant and miso bao buns and maple glazed pork belly with apple and wasabi, but we leaned toward the conventional for the next course of chicken wings with a side of salt (a curious addition) and a light and crispy taste of soft shell crab with wasabi mayo.

The sushi was a highlight on the Sushi & Sashimi plate, fresh, with an array of different fishes including favourites tuna and salmon – Issho doesn’t go too wild with this Japanese staple.

The only one that was pretty out there was a frozen Fuzu meringue cheesecake, more like liquid than a New York-baked, which crumbles of biscuit and a dollop of meringue, but placed on a bed of ice.

General manager Caspar Von Hofmannsthal popped by our table saying he couldn’t wait to move into the new site, having jumped at the chance and flown over from Cambodia to launch the first Japanese-style restaurant for the D&D group. Recommended for something a little bit different in the sea of Italian restaurants, Issho is definitely one to try.