Expert review: ‘Properly pure, tense English sparkling’
Our second expert review comes from Tom Surgey, a wine presenter and consultant to the wine trade, including Artelium.
Tom is a regular on telly, featuring on ITV’s Love Your Weekend and This Morning. He is one of The Three Wine Men and hosts regular live events across the UK. See him this Summer at Foodies Festivals in the Drinks Theatre. For more info check out tomsurgey.com or @tomsurgey on Instagram
This is properly pure, tense English sparkling. Concentrated, powerful, ocean-deep layers of complexity viewed through a pin-head fine tension. It drives right to the core of what this category is all about.
Chardonnay does the heavy lifting, but Pinot Noir and Meunier play a really important role in giving the electric structure more body and high-polished, elegant fruit richness.
Nearly five years on lees wraps it in layers of toasty brioche, the year post-disgorgement on cork gives the whole wine a harmoniousness and finesse that’s rare.
Low-dosage (4 g/l) keeps the fruit purity at the fore; it’s a dreamy aperitif but many may prefer it with some food. Go shellfish, seafood or any kind, high-fat charcuterie, salty crispy nibbles.