Fashion firms criticised by cross-party Parliamentary committee

North West fashion companies have come in for criticism from MPs over their ‘failure’ to commit to reducing their environmental and social impact.

Bury-based JD Sports and Manchester firms Boohoo and Missguided were among a number of firms named in a report looking into sustainable fashion and labour market initiatives by the Environmental Audit Committee (EAC).

The EAC said it was “shocking” the firms were “failing to take action”.

Boohoo said the report did not reflect its commitment to sustainability.

The inquiry was prompted by the popularity of “fast fashion… cheap clothing, with quick turnover that encourages repurchasing”.

Disposable fashion has come under fire, not just for the amount that ends up in landfill, but also because it can release toxic chemicals in production and plastic fibres when it is washed.

Last Summer the committee wrote to 16 fashion retailers asking what they were doing to cut the environmental and social impact of the clothes and shoes they sell.

The interim report ranks brands according to how “engaged” they are in their commitment to sustainable fashion and labour market initiatives.

The “most engaged” were named as Asos, Marks & Spencer Tesco, Primark and Burberry.

The “moderately engaged” retailers were Next, Debenhams, Arcadia Group and Asda.

The retailers were also asked if they were members of the ACT (Action, Collaboration, Transformation) labour rights and living wage agreement and the SCAP (Sustainable Clothing Action Plan) to reduce their carbon, water and waste footprint.

With the exception of Burberry all the other “moderately engaged” and “most engaged” retailers participated in one or other or both of these schemes.

Of the six “least engaged” retailers, none was a member of either of these initiatives,

In a statement, Boohoo said it wanted to “re-iterate its commitment to being involved in the ongoing discussion on the sustainability of fashion.

“This initial report does not fully reflect the policies and procedures and independent initiatives that we have in place, or the extent of our ongoing commitment in the area of sustainability.”

JD Sports said “As a business, we participate in a number of ethical initiatives which fall outside the narrow list referred to in the Committee’s report.”

Today’s report was welcomed by shopworkers’ union Usdaw, for its recommendation that online clothes retailer Boohoo should recognise it as the union for its staff.

The report said: “We recommend that Boohoo engage with Usdaw as a priority and recognise unions for its workers.”

Usdaw said it has run a sustained campaign for recognition at Boohoo, so that the union can fully represent members, but the company has so far declined to engage.

Usdaw activists recently held an action day outside the company’s Burnley warehouse, which has more than 3,000 staff and is the area’s largest employer.

Mike Aylward, Usdaw divisional officer, said: “We are pleased that MPs listened to our evidence that countered Boohoo’s assertion that there was no demand for union recognition and we welcome their recommendation for the company to engage with us as a priority.”