Restaurant review: Fresh flavours enliven traditional Japanese classic
IT IS not much to look at and from the bar-like set up it was obvious this wasn’t going to be a spectacular dining experience.
However, what Tonkotsu – the latest addition to Selfridges’ Food Hall – lacks in atmosphere, the chefs certainly make up for with authentic, fresh flavours.
Named after the comforting Japanese soup dish, Tonkotsu has made its way into Birmingham’s largest department store following success in London.
First up, traditional Japanese style dumplings filled with pork, ginger and garlic. Whilst the gyoza’s wrapper was a little greasy for my liking, the meaty filling was juicy and flavoursome as it should be.
The King Prawn Katsu dish is a definite if you’re after starters – succulent king prawns in crispy panko breadcrumbs with a Japanese style barbeque sauce that’s slightly sweet.
Both the starters and mains came out at the same time which wasn’t a surprise considering this is the kind of place you swing by to get a quick ‘bite to eat’. But despite the appearance, there was nothing quick or bite-sized about the main meal.
The restaurant’s signature ramen dish is certainly no quick affair, but there are so many elements to appreciate, you wouldn’t want it any other way.
Tonkotsu’s thick self-made noodles, the crunch of the bamboo shoots, the punch of the spring onion, the juicy chicken soaked in the bleeding yolk of the egg into the light, spicy broth.
With other restaurants, your food would probably have gone stone cold in the time it took to demolish this meal, but these are dishes made in front of you, served piping hot and in special crockery to keep it that way.
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