Lifestyle: Indian fine-dining comes to East Yorkshire

IT HAS transformed the perception of Indian food in our region, bringing a unique dining concept to East Yorkshire.

Fine-dining Indian restaurant Tapasya was launched in Hull in 2013 by Tapan Mahapatra, well-known in the region for his work as an onco-plastic breast surgeon at Castle Hill Hospital in Cottingham and Spire Hospital in Anlaby. Mr Mahapatra, who decided to set up the restaurant despite having no experience in the hospitality industry, went into business with Mukesh Tirkoti, who ran five-star hotels and restaurants in India and launched projects in Moscow and Zurich before opening destination restaurants in London.

Mr Mahapatra then recruited head chef KK Anand, who had trained the finalists for Indian TV’s version of MasterChef and was the head chef for Asian cuisine at the Olympic Village in London. He also brought in Costanzo Scala, a sommelier who has worked in some of the world’s finest restaurants, as the wine consultant.

With a strong team and growing reputation (it has built a reputation as one of the best restaurants outside London) it has been an upwards journey.

Head chef Mr Anand says the business is proud of what it has achieved so far. “We provide a unique concept and there’s not anything like this in Yorkshire,” he says.

“We’ve been really well received and people are really enjoying us being here. That’s a great achievement for us.

“And the business is growing. We’re getting appreciated and moving forward in the right direction.”

Importantly, what’s the food like?  The focus on fine-dining is absolutely clear from the menu.

Chef Anand describes it as a “classy” combination of exquisite dishes paired with the ideal wines.

Our starters included Indian street food patties of potatoes, cottage cheese and spinach shallow fired (posh patties full of flavour), succulent corn fed chicken tikka in Greek yoghurt marination roasted in tandoor and Gilafi lamb mince kneaded with spices, rolled on skewers and slow roasted.  All three dishes were delicious.     

For mains, we shared a two bone rack of lamb with rajasthani spices slow roasted in tandoor served with coriander, mint chutney and the “famous” kerla fish curry with fenugreek, mustard seed and curry leaves based sauce. The lamb was particularly good. It really was a ‘melt-in-the-mouth’ dish. One to definitely try. We accompanied the dishes with wholesome black lentils simmered overnight finished with tomatoes and butter (these were so good I could have had the dish as a main) and crushed red chilli tempered Travancore potatoes. A garlic naan and plain rice also accompanied the meal. 

I can honestly say this was the best Indian food I have ever tasted. It’s hardly surprising given the prestige of Mr Anand, but I really was impressed. It is quality food and well worth a visit.

Tapasya is trying to tap into more local partnerships, too. Last year the restaurant joined up with Hull-based Atom Beers, which brews ales specifically suited to accompany curry. The result is the addition of two Tapasya brand beers to the restaurant’s drinks list – a pale ale which is already proving a big hit with diners and drinkers, and a porter which packs cardamom and coriander to complement the food.

“We’re always looking for other business to work with and we’re talking to more local businesses, now,” Mr Anand added.

And the restaurant’s success has been recognised. Tapasya reached the final of the best restaurant category in the Remarkable East Yorkshire Tourism Awards (REYTAs).

Mr Mahapatra has also been appointed on the Culture Company board – the driving force behind the  City of Culture 2017.  He’s chairman of Hull & East Riding Hindu Cultural Association, too.

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