Playboy bunnies and lollipops; The strange world of accessory licencing

FEW business leaders can boast the claim that a gut feeling led them to pursue an accessory franchise for Playboy.

But that’s exactly what Malcolm Dyl, managing director of Bridlington-based Rawfusion did. It proved a winning move for the firm – considered one of Europe’s leading branded fashion and accessories manufacturers.

Spotting the “next big thing” in bags, belts and jewellery however is what has kept the firm at the forefront of fashion. Founded as a belt manufacturer, Rawfusion (then Rawhide), originally sold into high street fashion stores such as River Island and Next.

But Dyl wanted to take the firm beyond manufacturing own label goods and started pursuing accessory licences for some of Europe’s most popular brands such as Ted Baker, Kangol, Ben Sherman and Firetrap.

In 2000 he started eyeing up Playboy judging it as “the next big brand”.

“That’s where fashion was headed,” he explains.

“The brand was doing well in the US but didn’t have distribution in the UK. It was the right move as the Playboy brand has proved very successful both here and across Europe.”

Other iconic brands have followed including Pacha (a spin-out of the famous Ibiza night club), Chilli Pepper and Chuppa Chups – famed for lollies and a global brand in its own right.

Business is still healthy despite the global downturn, but Dyl admits that firms are struggling and buying budgets have been cut.

“A lot of businesses are running into problems with the lack of funding,” says Dyl.
“Many are simply struggling for cash. Germany’s problems may have started later than here in the UK, but things are heading in the same direction now.

“In Italy however, the supply chain has broken down as retailers are failing to pay suppliers, which means they don’t pay us. Business around the world is changing.”

Rawfusion, which has a £19m turnover and a 15 strong workforce, isn’t sitting around waiting for things to get better though. It’s working hard to offer shorter lead times and is looking to design accessories for higher end brands to achieve better margins. The company also offers brands it franchises an easy way to market through its design, marketing, sales and distribution operations.

“We are currently in discussions with a number of brands, which we hope will come to fruition soon,” says Dyl.